Sunday, December 13, 2009
(No More) Lacroix DAHHHHLING:Final Bow: Lacroix and his model, Fall 2009 Haute Couture Fashion Week December: Not A Good Month For Fashion On December 2nd, it was announced--after much speculation--that Christian Lacroix Couture has been reduced to a licensing operation. It's bosses (yes, Lacroix is not owned by Lacroix, quelle surprise!), the Florida-based Falic Group, could not find a buyer. There were a couple Sheiks who were interested but couldn't provide enough financial information to make the Falic Group happy that the Couture House would be prepared for the future.Spring'09 Christian Lacroix Couture: Genius of color and fabric mixing His final Haute Couture showing was last season, Fall 2009, showing only 24 looks. Since he basically had no money, Lacroix himself did not get payed and Paris Couture fabric and trim houses donated their textiles for this collection. It was rumored that even the models, make-up and hair stylists, also volunteered their services, knowing that this probably would be the last Christian Lacroix Couture Collection. He sent down lots of black, and uncharacteristically somber clothes. However the final exit was an absolute triumph of typical Lacroix design: A "Virgin Mary" (or was it "Lady of Guadaloupe"?) gown in silver-white silk zibeline with embroidered lace, sequins and hand-made red, yellow and blue silk roses and an over-the-top headdress. It was enough to make Edina and Patsy of "Absolutely Fabulous" cry with joy. Read HERE for more on the story. Martin Margiela Departs his own House:The One Photo That Exists (allegedly): Martin Margiela, circa 1997 And now, just five days ago, it was announced that Martin Margiela, the elusive Belgian designer, has left the Maison he has built. Diesel, which owns the majority of Maison Margiela (yes, Diesel of Diesel Jeans), announced last week that he was leaving and that he would not be replaced. They also said that the fashion house would continue on as well as its creative staff but with no Margiela. It was rumored that he had already been already departed months ago, but it was only made official this past week. The designer has not been seen for years and in fact communicated with his staff and the press via fax.Known for his avant-garde designs and a cult-figure among the fashionistas-in-the-know, this is another heavy blow to an industry that has been suffering lately from Fashion Houses being shuttered (Lacroix par example) and others, such as Ungaro and Nina Ricci, that have had a "revolving door" of designers and/or creative directors. Instead of even trying to find a replacement for the Martin Margiela House, it's bosses just decided to carry on without him. At least they didn't decide to hire Lindsay Lohan (a la Ungaro). We can at least breathe a sigh of relief for that. Click HERE for Suzy Menkes' take from the New York Times.