RUNWAY REPORT......Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week: Schiaparelli Couture S/S 2014

Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2014 Haute Couture

Background: The famed House of Schiaparelli is back. Diego Della Valle president and CEO of Italian leather goods Tod's, bought Schiaparelli back in 2007 and just recently hired a new Creative Director/Designer Marco Zanini (who's last stint was with Rochas). One of the most prominent fashion designers of her time--primarily between the 1920s and early 1940s, Elsa Schiaparelli was known for her whimsical prints, power-shouldered tailored suits, unusual applique details, Surrealist influences and especially that "Lobster dress" that was worn by Wallis Simpson right before becoming the Duchess of Windsor in 1937 and photographed by Cecil Beaton:

The Look: Zanini went back to the Schiaparelli archives and referenced many Schiaparelli-isms, including some fabulously printed dresses, strong-shouldered tailored jackets. Flowy gowns with luxe details and appliques. A perfect balance of somber and seductive (light pastels, grays, black) mixed with with bold and strong (as in color and prints). Fabulous Surrealist-inspired hats finished off the looks.

Colors: Light lilacs, ivory, yellow, blue, silver, pastel green, red

Trends: Reversible jackets--somber on one side, ruffled and frothy on the other; flowy 1930's style gowns; tiered ruffles; blouson top shapes; cropped pants; headdresses/hats; bouilloné (pouffy "boiling over" detail; Couture sandals