A New Era Has Begun.....

The wait is over...
John Galliano's replacement was just announced and it is (drum roll please!)... Belgian designer Raf Simons. Yesterday, NY Times' Cathy Horyn and her International Herald Tribune colleague Suzy Menkes both reported that Simons would head Dior and then, The House of Dior officially announced it. In a statement released on Monday, Dior trumpeted Simons as “one of today’s greatest talents” who would “propel [Dior’s] iconic style into the 21st century.” His official title is artistic director of women’s haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessory collections. A mouthful... He’ll show his first collection for the house in July for Couture. For the past seven years, Simons designed in Milan for Jil Sander, showing feminine yet modern clothes for a fashionable, directional woman.
His last collections for Sander emphasized ’50s and ’60s silhouettes and minimalist couture shapes. They were very "Grace Kelly for 2012"; sumptuous coats, 50's style dresses, clean, modern color palettes and silhouettes. All very "Dior"-esque, if you will. The collections were critically acclaimed and I bet the Dior execs were watching.
As we all know, in March of last year, John Galliano was let go of Dior after making anti-Semitic slurs on more than one occasion and that now-infamous video. Subsequently, he was found guilty and later apologized, adding that he had no recollection of making the hurtful slurs. He also admitted that he suffered from drug addiction and went on to seek treatment.
Since his departure, everyone and their "Fashion Dog" has speculated as to who would succeed him at the House of Dior. Names were dropped--it seemed--every week. It was rumored that Marc Jacobs was in, until the Dior execs didn't meet his demands, including a multimillion dollar paycheck plus he wanted to bring his team--including his right-hand man, Robert Duffy naturally. Alber Elbaz, Lanvin Creative Director, as well as Haider Ackermann were also rumored to have been choices as well.
The entire time, Galliano's "Design Bestie" Bill Gaytten has been designing both the Dior Pret-a-Porter (Ready to Wear) and Haute Couture collections, to mixed reviews. Most recently, however, he received great reviews for his last Dior Haute Couture Collection shown earlier this year. Many editors and fashionistas grumbled, saying that the Dior execs should stop this nonsense of having Gaytten be the "interim designer" and just give him the official "Artistic Director" title.
Then two months ago in February--suddenly and unexpectedly--news broke that Belgian Raf Simons was to leave his job as Creative Director of Jil Sander, making way for the German designer to return to her post. Cut to today, and yes, Simons is the new designer at Dior. He will be the sixth couturier for the storied French House. No word on where that leaves Bill Gaytten in the mix (if I was him, I'd take a LONG vacation to Tahiti!!). But for now, I can't wait to see what Raf Simons does for the House of Dior. Bye Bye Tutankhamen Dior Couture, hello to a new, clean, minimalist Dior.
Below, are some of Raf Simons for Jil Sander "Red Carpet Hits":

Christian Dior Pret-a-Porter Fall/Winter 2012: Dior House Designer Bill Gaytten continued his love of the iconic "Bar Jacket" and there were also references to Ballet, New Look, full A-Like skirts juxtaposed with fitted ones. Very commercial, not-style-shaking clothes. But very "Dior on Auto-Pilot". Draped and twisted tops, chiffon gowns. "The Artist"-looking 1920's-like cloche caps on the models. Colors: Mauve, rose pink, blush, nude, indigo blue, black, and hounds-tooth jacquard's. No one knows whether Gaytten is still "in it" for the long haul and if the Dior owners are still looking for Galliano's replacement (last rumor was Raf Simons was being courted for the Dior position--after he was unceremoniously booted out of Jill Sander). I've said this before: it must be very frustrating for Gaytten...however, he's probably just happy to have a job and a steady paycheck... Check out some of the looks of his latest offering for the House of Dior Ready to Wear:
Click Below for the Full Runway Video of Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2012:

Retro Elegant Homme:
As we all know, Bill Gaytten--former "Right Hand Guy" for fallen designer John Galliano--is at the helm of all things formerly touched by "the Man" himself. He designs Dior Pret-a-Porter and Christian Dior Haute Couture, as well as all the Galliano lines.
This past week, during Paris Menswear Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012/2013, Gaytten unveiled the latest for John Galliano Men. After looking at the runway photos and video, it was simply BEAUTIFUL! The theme was 1930's and the elegant, chic man of that decade. The show went through all the archetypes of a 30's Man--from the UBER Gangsters in patent leather trench coats and side-styled fedoras, to...
Newspaper boys in newsboy caps (of course!) and shearling-lined coats. Outerwear--including jackets and blazers were belted or with their own built-in waistband--emphasizing the teeny-tiny waist of yesteryear (and of the beautiful male models!).
Pants were either wide and lose or skinny/fitted. Big, metalized, patent-leather shoes and very, very slicked parted hair, finished off the total look. I almost thought I was looking at old photos of my Dad and my Uncle from when they were in their teens.
The look was very Charles Lindbergh meets 1930's Football Hero meets Hollywood Star. There was luxurious fur shawl collars accenting semi-double breasted wool tweed coats, jodhpurs and even a vintage football helmet...or two.
That's not to say that there was still a lot for the modern 2012 fashion-savvy man (with lots of money) to look at and incorporate into their wardrobe. Those aforementioned coats were GORGEOUS, the wide-legged "Clark Cable" pants were fabulously tailored and yes, I would even think about buying a riding pant--well, if I was 22 and had a 28" waist!
For evening, there were deep purples, lurex, metallic's and an overall 1930's Dandy look that somehow looked relevant and oh-so-elegant--in 2012. At least to me. Click Below for the complete Video of John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013:

Pretty Dior
Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012 continues and up next is the Christian Dior Spring 2012 Collection. Designer Bill Gaytten (John Galliano's right hand for over a decade)--who was tapped as Galliano's replacement after his escandalo--showed his first pret-a-porter (ready to wear) collection for the famed house. How did he do? Well, according to the editors and press, pretty good. The reviews are in and at least, they were better than what he received from his Dior Haute Couture show several months ago.
Now, I'm sure you have been keeping up with all the "Who's Going To Design For Dior" DISH, Gaytten was picked as the "replacement" but word has it that his bosses feel it's a "transitional" position. It has been rumored that possibly Marc Jacobs might take over the Creative Director position. I've read this, so I'm sure Bill has too. It it said that contingent to taking the job, Jacobs would need (among other things, MULTI-MILLIONS!) to bring his entire team as well. Makes sense. But where does that leave Mr. Gaytten. Who knows. As a result of this "I don't know how long I will have my job" situation, Gaytten and his design team, did a just-very-nice job. No earth-shaking editorially-KRAZEE garments here. Just pretty clothes. Very "Lady Dior". Very sellable, which should make the execs happy. But let's be honest, the House of Dior doesn't really care if the clothes sell. It's ALL about the perfumes, sunglasses, and purses darling.
But back to Gaytten's collection: These were dresses, jackets, skirts, that one could actually SEE in the the Christian Dior boutiques--as opposed to what Galliano did--most of that was Runway-only (which made for great WWD covers and lots and lots of press--good or bad--which in the end, sold more perfumes and sunglasses!). For Spring 2012, Gaytten showed the famed Dior Bar jacket, the late 40's/early 50's style dirndl and pleated full skirts. The Pretty lady-like sheath dresses. Reds, bold prints, bolder sequins and very Upper Class French Aristocrat styles: First Lady of France Carla Bruni-Sarkozy. Totally.
Capelet dresses were important, especially in light and airy gauze's, chiffon's and organza's.
In the end of the Christian Dior Spring 2012 Runway show, supermodel Karlie Kloss (far right) sauntered out in a beautiful black lace and chiffon high-necked gown with a sheer single-layer floor-length skirt. As she turned around, all you could focus on was, well, her cheeks--her derrière. It was perfect, of course. Hello, it's Karlie Kloss. But many an editor couldn't help but wonder if showing her "you-know-what" as the FINAL vision one saw in his show--was a subliminal sign to his bosses... Click Below for the Full Runway Show of Christian Dior Spring 2012: