WHAT: Martin Margiela Artisanal Collection Spring/Summer 2019 with John Galliano as the Creative Director.

INSPIRATION: John Galliano said his inspiration was decadence in art, film, literature. Galliano defines decadence as "the excess, the artifice, the decay" that takes on different forms in life...

The backdrop--created by the Margiela studio, evoked the dayglo hallucinogenic images of Kenny Scharf art-and-fashion haven, Club 57.

SEEN ON THE RUNWAY: Gender fluid (Is it male? Female? Who cares!), vividly colorful designs, inventive treatments in prints, hand embroidery, art reflective fabrics, exposed tailoring techniques...a Moto Jacket turned into a Jumpsuit...this is the future of "New Fashion".

COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS:



















Click below to watch Martin Margiela Artisanal Spring/Summer 2019:

The Look: John Galliano is BACK! At least, this was the perception from the Fashion Glitterati crowd gathered to see Galliano's Paris Debut for Maison Margiela. According to Style.com, the applause kept coming...and coming...and coming...pleading the designer to take his bow. He didn't. Now, back to the collection: only 30 looks (only since normally, this is the Ready-to-Wear "runway land" of 60+ looks, at least!) were shown. It was a display of Galliano "muses" such as Blanche DuBois, Marchesa Casatis--using models hunched over, askew cray-cray makeup; and iconic raw-hemmed Margiela standards--seen on jackets, dresses, skirts.


Trends: Art Deco 1920's and 1970's; fur skirts; Cousin Itt shoes; "Blocked" heels; leather and chiffon combined; neon makeup; black lace.

Colors: Black, mustard yellow; Cabernet red; orange; highlighter yellow; gold.

Collection Highlights:

The wait is over...
John Galliano's replacement was just announced and it is (drum roll please!)... Belgian designer Raf Simons. Yesterday, NY Times' Cathy Horyn and her International Herald Tribune colleague Suzy Menkes both reported that Simons would head Dior and then, The House of Dior officially announced it. In a statement released on Monday, Dior trumpeted Simons as “one of today’s greatest talents” who would “propel [Dior’s] iconic style into the 21st century.” His official title is artistic director of women’s haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessory collections. A mouthful... He’ll show his first collection for the house in July for Couture. For the past seven years, Simons designed in Milan for Jil Sander, showing feminine yet modern clothes for a fashionable, directional woman.
His last collections for Sander emphasized ’50s and ’60s silhouettes and minimalist couture shapes. They were very "Grace Kelly for 2012"; sumptuous coats, 50's style dresses, clean, modern color palettes and silhouettes. All very "Dior"-esque, if you will. The collections were critically acclaimed and I bet the Dior execs were watching.
As we all know, in March of last year, John Galliano was let go of Dior after making anti-Semitic slurs on more than one occasion and that now-infamous video. Subsequently, he was found guilty and later apologized, adding that he had no recollection of making the hurtful slurs. He also admitted that he suffered from drug addiction and went on to seek treatment.
Since his departure, everyone and their "Fashion Dog" has speculated as to who would succeed him at the House of Dior. Names were dropped--it seemed--every week. It was rumored that Marc Jacobs was in, until the Dior execs didn't meet his demands, including a multimillion dollar paycheck plus he wanted to bring his team--including his right-hand man, Robert Duffy naturally. Alber Elbaz, Lanvin Creative Director, as well as Haider Ackermann were also rumored to have been choices as well.
The entire time, Galliano's "Design Bestie" Bill Gaytten has been designing both the Dior Pret-a-Porter (Ready to Wear) and Haute Couture collections, to mixed reviews. Most recently, however, he received great reviews for his last Dior Haute Couture Collection shown earlier this year. Many editors and fashionistas grumbled, saying that the Dior execs should stop this nonsense of having Gaytten be the "interim designer" and just give him the official "Artistic Director" title.
Then two months ago in February--suddenly and unexpectedly--news broke that Belgian Raf Simons was to leave his job as Creative Director of Jil Sander, making way for the German designer to return to her post. Cut to today, and yes, Simons is the new designer at Dior. He will be the sixth couturier for the storied French House. No word on where that leaves Bill Gaytten in the mix (if I was him, I'd take a LONG vacation to Tahiti!!). But for now, I can't wait to see what Raf Simons does for the House of Dior. Bye Bye Tutankhamen Dior Couture, hello to a new, clean, minimalist Dior.
Below, are some of Raf Simons for Jil Sander "Red Carpet Hits":

Dior Haute Couture...sans Galliano: Fashion Darlings: Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Fashion Week began this past Monday and ended yesterday (I know, only three days!). So, naturally, I am here as your "Fashion Servant" to give you the highlights and my "Nick V. Two Cents" on what the top designers offered in terms of these rarefied hand-made $100,000+ clothes on the catwalks. These clothes are then either shown or lent to stylists for their famous Hollywood clients to wear to BIG Red Carpet events, given to fashion editors to feature in their magazines, or hopefully, ordered by that very small list of multi-millionaire clientele (estimated at just 400 in the entire World!) from Dallas to Dubai, Mumbai, Beijing and Shanghai. First up: Christian Dior Haute Couture:
This show, of course, was one of the most--if not THE MOST-anticipated show of the season. Obviously since, it was the first Dior Haute Couture showing following John Galliano's unceremonious departure and firing. Lots was expected of Bill Gaytten, who has taken over (for now) as the head of the Dior Design Team. He's been with John Galliano & Co. for over 20 years so if any one can sense what Galliano would have done and what direction he would have gone in, it would be him. Did he live up to this? It seems the reaction was mixed: Here's a quote from Tim Blanks of style.com, of what he thought of the show and the clothes: On the evidence of today's first Dior couture show without John Galliano, what happens is a misjudged effort to impress an alien thumbprint on an aesthetic that, for better or worse, is one of the fashion industry's most clearly defined...... Then came Karlie Kloss, dressed as a Pierrot, sad clown all alone in the spotlight as the soundtrack failed and glitter showered down. But the stardust missed her by this much. And that felt like some kind of crazy cosmic metaphor. Ouch, I think...
The show had three distinct sections. It began with lots of color, prints, stripes, all very "Cirque de Dior". Fall/Winter for the Dior Couture ladies will not be a dark and somber one. It also looked very 80's Neon/Maripol/Stephen Sprouse/Memphis Movement. The Dior Bar Jacket showed up several times, but somehow it's still didn't have the same effect when Galliano did his magic with it. The pleating, twisting and intricate draping that the Dior Couture House of petite mains are known for, was all there. But there seemed to be something missing...
The second section was a "Caftan" late 1970's "Disco" section and to be honest, after looking at the photos and the video, this was my favorite part of the show and I almost wish Creative Director Bill Gaytten and his Dior Design Team would have done a complete collection of Caftans, almost as a cleansing of the Galliano aesthetic. I just wished the entire show was ONE STRONG Statement a la "Flower Power Dior" (Fall 2010 Collection), "Dior Goes Equestrian" (Spring 2010 Collection), or "Tutankhamen Dior", but instead this one had several and they were rather incohesive. It should have been all "Caftan Valley-of-the-Dolls Couture!".
Of course, in the end, there were Ball Gowns. Huge, entrance-making ones. This was supposed to be the "Grand Finale" but again, these out-of-control gowns fell flat--especially on a runway that was not wide enough for them (what happened there?). The gown above is the one Tim Blanks was referring to--the (somewhat sad) Pierrot Clown Gown. It is definitely difficult to carry on after Galliano and only time will tell, if he will succeed. Don't miss the designer (and his assistant Susanna Venegas) uncomfortable bow at the end of the video... Click Below for Full Video of the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Show:

Supermodel Bride...
Lots of Big Weddings going on--The Monaco Royal Wedding and yesterday: Supermodel Kate Moss wed The Kills guitarist Jamie Hince at St Peter's Church in the Cotswolds, west-central England.
Ever the rebel, Kate stayed true to her close friend (ignoring political correctness) and wore a custom John Galliano bias-cut sequined gold-leaf embroidered silk creme-colored gown while her new hubby wore a Stefano Pilati for YSL light blue double-breasted suit. Love his YSL "Johnny Boots" (my favorite! I own Two and looking for more!!!). I also love how the shirt-cuffs are completely showing and how dapper his entire ensemble looks. Rocker Chic. Speaking of shoes, Shoe Couturier Manolo Blahnik designed a special pair of heels for Kate which included blue insoles for the "something blue". The silk tulle veil--which also had embroidered flowers--was wrapped in a 1920's/1930's style, around her loose curls, hair style done by hair stylist to the Top Models and Stars, Sam McKnight. Kate had 15 (!) bridesmaids--all wearing pretty flower headbands--including her daughter Lila. Guests in attendance were Naomi Campbell in Givenchy Haute Couture by Riccardo Tisci, Vogue Editor Anna Wintour (who has been in England for Wimbledon), Stella McCartney, Jude Law and "my Macy's girl" Kelly Osbourne. Mari Testino (above) was the "official" photographer (you would think he would use a more, say "professional" camera??!!) and it was reported that the wedding was to be exclusively covered by American Vogue. Vogue is planning a large spread in the September Issue (naturally). Inquiring minds want to know: Does that mean that Vogue payed for part of the wedding? Regardless of who payed, looking at the fact that these photos are out and look very "official photos"-esque, clearly there was either not a "Vogue Exclusive" or someone is in BIG trouble! Either way, the new Bride and Groom looked FAB! This is an example of a perfect "Hipster Nuptial".

Galliano Without Galliano...
Last week, The Fashion House of John Galliano showed the first Menswear Collection done without the name behind the brand. Galliano, in fact, was in court--in Paris--around the same time trying to give his version of what happened that fateful night and well, give his excuses for why he said the terrible things he said. In emotional testimony, Galliano blamed pressures of a pitiless industry for pushing him off the brink and into prescription drugs and alcohol addictions.
But the House that is owned by Dior President and CEO Sydney Toledano wanted none of that. Instead, the focus was on the collection designed by Galliano longtime collaborator Bill Gaytten, who has been with the company for over 20 years and in fact is still part of the Dior Design Team. Here's the ironic part of the Galliano Menswear Spring 2012 Collection: A lot of it looked as if it was an Ode to Galliano himself; one entire section seemed very "Galliano as The Muse": The Dandy hats with feathers, the open vests under bare torsos, the swashbuckling stylings, all of it. In fact, at the end, it was as if most of the Models were serious John Galliano doppelgangers--apologetically.
There were 4 distinct categories of the show: The John Galliano Bohemian Swashbuckler, The Effeminate School Boy, The Hipster in Silk PJ's and The Toreador Rocker Bad Boy.
This was the weakest section to me. It was almost like they decided "Hey, we need to sell some John Galliano Underwear to keep this House in the black, so send some guys down the runway in their skivvies". Some look almost saggy, like they'd been washed one too many times. But I guess, after seeing those silk pajama pants at D&G, it's now officially a "Menswear Spring 2012" Trend. Boys: Go get some silk printed pajama pants ASAP!
To me this was the strongest section. I loved the mix of Toreador chic and cool Rocker Boy. Skinny pants, pointed shoes, strong boxy jackets, lots of Toreador-like embellishments. I felt the new designer's voice was most apparent here and since this was the close of the show maybe it was to demonstrate the "new" House of John Galliano...without Galliano. Click Below for the Full Runway Video of John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012:

An Haute Couture Legacy...a Runway Video Look Back:
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2004 Part 1:
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2004 Part 2:
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2007 Part 1:
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2007 Part 2:
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2007 Part 3:
Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2007 Part 4:
Christian Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2007 Part 1:
Christian Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2007 Part 2:
Christian Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2007 Part 3:
Christian Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2007 Part 4: