Wow.
Creative Director and Head Designer for Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton, showed her latest offering for Spring/Summer 2012 at Paris Fashion Week and one word: Wow. It was as if the Ghost of "Lee" was right there! At first glance, it seemed "Bondage Inspired" (the face masks, the UBER tight corsetry) but in a way it wasn't. As Sarah Burton stated on the McQueen website "I was thinking about a woman as an object of desire. We go to such lengths to adorn ourselves that we almost become our clothes or are taken over by them. This is a collection about excess - an exploration of ideals of beauty at their most extreme.” It was exquisite and VERY McQueen. The show began with suiting that was T-T-TIGHT. A very strong emphasis on the shoulder as well as the longer skirt length--below the knee (approx 26"-30" from the natural waist) and tiered ruffles at the hem of those skirts. The hips were exaggerated--especially in the Finale Gowns. You know that rule of "Don't put anything there that might make a woman's hips bigger". Sarah Burton doesn't give a DAMN!
The brocade and jacquard-like prints were stunning--and done in suitings with ruffled peplums as well as Baby Doll Dresses so romantic and so NOT Bondage.
Every single garment was almost Museum-worthy. I doubt that most of these will even make it to your local McQueen boutique (I'll be very surprised if any of these do--maybe the suitings and "toned-down" version of the dresses). But who cares; I can't wait for the next Alexander McQueen Exhibition to see these up close and personal! I'm sure, though--that a lot of the gowns and dresses will make the Red Carpet for sure! Speaking of Red Carpet, lots of lace, impeccable applique, embroidery and high-low gowns (Sorry Miss Kelly Osborne! I know how much she HATES those "Mullet Dresses" on her show Fashion Police--I LOVE them!!!)
Besides the "Homage to the Exaggeration of Women" and Bondage sub-theme, the entire show was also based on the Ocean, underwater, and creatures whom live beneath. These were Underwater GODDESSES. The coral-embroidered Baby Dolls and gowns were stupendous.
And the Finale Gowns were armored sequined and metallic Bondage-meets-Oceania Empresses. I hope Alexander McQueen was smiling from up there! Well done Sarah Burton. It shook me just a little bit...and I like that! Click Below for the Full Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012 Runway Video:

Karl "Prospero" and his Underwater Runway Extravaganza:
Two days ago, Karl Lagerfeld showed his beautiful Chanel Spring/Summer 2012 Collection during Paris Fashion Week. He transformed the Grand Palais--the site of all his runway shows, into a magical underwater world. Just wait until you see the beginning of the video below. The stage is INSANE! All I kept thinking about was "Wow, look what perfumes and purses can buy you!". The collection, which consisted of over 8o looks (!), was a success, according to all who were there. He began with modern interpretations of the Chanel suit, in soft tweeds, boucle's, in white, cremes, light lemons, pastel-y pinks, turquoise and black.
Lots of Spring-like prints, chiffon's, fluttery ruffle dresses and blouses. Shoes were either sandals or flat booties in leather and metallics. NO heels in sight. He also showed some fabulous swimsuits toward the end which you can see in the runway video. They looked like "Sports Illustrated Mermaids" rising from the sea!
For evening, it was relaxed, yet very LUXE glamour, with printed silk dresses, lots hitting "tea"-length with sequin embellishments. Stiffer silk gazar's, organza's, and/or iridescent satins added lots of texture and an architectural element. Lots of shoulder interest--which remains a strong trend.
Also, look for the "Voluminous Sheath" where it's fitted up top but then softly leads into interesting shapes from the high-waist down. All in all--at least from seeing the photos and the video--a beautiful, modern collection. Bravo Karl and his team! You'll probably see ten out of the 80+ looks in the stores come next Spring , but who cares, the show was glorious! Speaking of the show--did I mention Florence Welch of Florence and The Machine performed. Yep. Again, what perfumes and purses can buy you darlings! Click Below for the Full Chanel Spring/Summer 2012 Runway Video:

Pretty Dior
Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012 continues and up next is the Christian Dior Spring 2012 Collection. Designer Bill Gaytten (John Galliano's right hand for over a decade)--who was tapped as Galliano's replacement after his escandalo--showed his first pret-a-porter (ready to wear) collection for the famed house. How did he do? Well, according to the editors and press, pretty good. The reviews are in and at least, they were better than what he received from his Dior Haute Couture show several months ago.
Now, I'm sure you have been keeping up with all the "Who's Going To Design For Dior" DISH, Gaytten was picked as the "replacement" but word has it that his bosses feel it's a "transitional" position. It has been rumored that possibly Marc Jacobs might take over the Creative Director position. I've read this, so I'm sure Bill has too. It it said that contingent to taking the job, Jacobs would need (among other things, MULTI-MILLIONS!) to bring his entire team as well. Makes sense. But where does that leave Mr. Gaytten. Who knows. As a result of this "I don't know how long I will have my job" situation, Gaytten and his design team, did a just-very-nice job. No earth-shaking editorially-KRAZEE garments here. Just pretty clothes. Very "Lady Dior". Very sellable, which should make the execs happy. But let's be honest, the House of Dior doesn't really care if the clothes sell. It's ALL about the perfumes, sunglasses, and purses darling.
But back to Gaytten's collection: These were dresses, jackets, skirts, that one could actually SEE in the the Christian Dior boutiques--as opposed to what Galliano did--most of that was Runway-only (which made for great WWD covers and lots and lots of press--good or bad--which in the end, sold more perfumes and sunglasses!). For Spring 2012, Gaytten showed the famed Dior Bar jacket, the late 40's/early 50's style dirndl and pleated full skirts. The Pretty lady-like sheath dresses. Reds, bold prints, bolder sequins and very Upper Class French Aristocrat styles: First Lady of France Carla Bruni-Sarkozy. Totally.
Capelet dresses were important, especially in light and airy gauze's, chiffon's and organza's.
In the end of the Christian Dior Spring 2012 Runway show, supermodel Karlie Kloss (far right) sauntered out in a beautiful black lace and chiffon high-necked gown with a sheer single-layer floor-length skirt. As she turned around, all you could focus on was, well, her cheeks--her derrière. It was perfect, of course. Hello, it's Karlie Kloss. But many an editor couldn't help but wonder if showing her "you-know-what" as the FINAL vision one saw in his show--was a subliminal sign to his bosses... Click Below for the Full Runway Show of Christian Dior Spring 2012:

Doll Muse
Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012 is in full swing and Saturday was the Viktor & Rolf Spring 2012 runway show. Amsterdam-born designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren showed a very colorful collection that had BARBIE written all over it! We all know the duo has a MAJAH doll obsession--no fashionista worth their Louboutin's can ever forget that iconic Russian Doll Collection from their Fall/Winter 1999/2000 Haute Couture Collection. As you will see from the runway video at the end of this post--as well as these photos--from the moment the first model Natasha Poly came out in her synthetic pink eyelashes, over-sized laced-up jacket, skirt and bra-top ensemble, it was Mattel Barbie Land Heaven!
They carried the over-sized lacing through out their collection, and everything, from the collars to the blouson Bishop sleeves, was exaggerated 110%. They almost looked like "Valley of The Dolls: The Barbie Edition".
Colors were very "Barbie"--bubblegum pinks, deep reds, and royal blues. Lots of swirl-like applique' details as well.
The final Ball Gowns were of Couture-like quality. We may never see these in any store. But I have a feeling Katy Perry, Rihanna or Nicki Minaj's stylists might be calling...Speaking of calling, Mattel might need to make some flight reservations to Paris to meet with these two to come up with a Europe-only "Viktor & Rolf Barbie". I, for one, will be ALL over Harrods next year to get that doll! Click Below for Viktor & Rolf Spring 2012 Runway Show:

After Milan...comes Paris Fashion Week-Spring 2012
Designer Nicolas Ghesquière showed his latest collection for the famed House of Balenciaga in Paris today. According to some attendees, several of the audience benches collapsed--yes COLLAPSED--as people were taking their seats. Then, a voice came through the loudspeaker telling everyone to just "Stand Up".
So, yes, that's how everyone got to see the newest collection, even A-List front-row celebs like Salma Hayek and Catherine Deneuve and yes, Anna Wintour was standing too! What did they see? Lots of Cristobal Balenciaga-esque shapes but modernized for 2012. Structurally sturdy yet still floaty skirts, dresses and architectural jackets...
Bright bold colors--navy, magenta, gold, brick red, bronze, and prints--both geometric and Art-inspired. Shoulders: Out to THERE! Sloping at times. The big bold tops were perfectly matched with slimmer above-the-ankle "cigarette" pants that looked effortless and oh-so-chic.
Easy-breezy asymmetrical tops. Contrast patch pocket details that if any other designer did them, would look almost "Fashion-School Amateur" but Ghesquiere knows how to make it all look Ultra Luxe Sporty.
The final dresses, in all the color-and-print-blocking glory, as well as with all those stunning sequins are sure to end up in all the top fashion magazine editorials. And then there were those hats: A major nod to the House's founding couturier for sure. Click Below for the Full Runway Video of Balenciaga Spring 2012: